Updated 2026-10-30
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Quick answer: Start with the size of your largest planned part, add 10 mm per side on X and Y and 5 mm on Z, then pick a class. In our example a 180x150x120 mm part needs 200x170x125 mm, so a 220x220x250 mm bed-slinger fits with room to spare.
What a beginner printer has to get right
A first 3D printer must balance simplicity, reliability, and affordability. The most critical features for beginners are:
- Auto bed leveling (or manual leveling that's easy to do) to avoid failed prints.
- PLA printing reliability out of the box, without requiring temperature control or special setup.
- Build plate quality (e.g., removable flexible PEI plate) for easier part removal and better adhesion.
- Enclosure options (if needed for warping prevention or noise reduction).
- Footprint and space requirements that match the user's available desk or shelf space.
Printers that fail in these areas-like those with poor first-layer adhesion or overly complex setup-can frustrate new users. For example, a printer with a rigid glass bed that's hard to clean or a nozzle that clogs easily will require more maintenance than a beginner wants. Prioritize printers that are designed for simplicity and built to handle common beginner materials like PLA.
Printer classes: the criteria table
Choosing the right class of printer depends on your goals and environment. Here's a planning example:
| Class | Best for | Watch out for | Example planning numbers (mm) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Bed-slinger | Small parts, desk space, low cost | Limited build volume, no enclosure | Example: 220x220x250 mm bed, open frame, footprint about desk-size |
| Enclosed core-XY | Warping prevention, higher quality prints | Higher cost, larger footprint | Example: 250x250x300 mm bed, enclosed, larger footprint |
| Small-format | Compact storage, basic projects | Limited height for tall objects | Example: 200x200x200 mm bed, open frame, smallest footprint |
Bed-slingers are ideal for users with limited desk space who want to print small parts like phone cases or miniatures. They're often the cheapest option but have smaller build volumes. Enclosed core-XY printers are better for users who want to print with materials like ABS or PETG, which require heat and humidity control to prevent warping. Small-format printers are a middle ground, offering compact design but limited height for taller objects.
Build volume: how big is big enough
Build volume is the maximum size of a part a printer can make. For beginners, the rule of thumb is: add a 10 mm margin per side on X and Y, and 5 mm on Z to account for printer movement and part overhangs.
Example: If your largest planned part is 180x150x120 mm, add 20 mm to X and Y (180 + 20 = 200 mm, 150 + 20 = 170 mm) and 5 mm to Z (120 + 5 = 125 mm). A 220x220x250 mm bed-slinger fits all three dimensions (200 < 220, 170 < 220, 125 < 250).
If you plan to print larger items like a 3D-printed lamp base (300x200x150 mm), a 350x350x300 mm printer is needed. Always check the printer's build volume against your largest planned part, including margins. A 220x220x250 mm printer is a safe bet for most beginner projects, but avoid printers with build volumes smaller than your needs.
Bed leveling, build plates and first layers
First-layer adhesion is the most common failure point for beginners. A removable flexible PEI plate or glass bed with a heated plate is essential for reliable prints. Heated beds (around 60-110 C) help prevent warping, especially with materials like ABS or PETG.
Printers with auto bed leveling (like BLTouch sensors) eliminate the need for manual leveling, which can be time-consuming and error-prone. Manual leveling requires adjusting the printer's corners to ensure the bed is parallel to the nozzle. A poorly leveled bed causes failed prints or poor adhesion.
For example, a bed-slinger with a flexible PEI plate and auto leveling is ideal for beginners. Avoid printers with rigid glass beds that are hard to clean or require excessive glue. A good build plate should be easy to clean, reusable, and compatible with common adhesives like hairspray or glue sticks.
Open frame vs enclosed for a first printer
Open-frame printers are cheaper and easier to access but are prone to warping and create more noise. Enclosed printers, on the other hand, reduce warping by maintaining consistent temperature and minimize noise from the printer's fans and moving parts.
For beginners printing with PLA, an open-frame printer is often sufficient, as PLA is less sensitive to temperature changes. However, if you plan to print with ABS or PETG, an enclosed printer is necessary to prevent warping. Enclosed printers also protect your workspace from dust and debris, which can clog the nozzle over time.
A small-format enclosed printer (200x200x200 mm) is a good middle ground. Avoid open-frame printers with poor airflow or noisy fans, as they can be distracting in a home office or living room.
Where the printer lives: space, noise and ventilation
The printer's environment affects its performance and your comfort. Consider these factors:
- Space: A 220x220 mm bed-slinger needs about 620 mm of shelf depth (bed travel doubles Y depth). Ensure your desk or shelf can accommodate this.
- Noise: Printers with enclosures or quiet fans are better for shared spaces. Avoid open-frame printers with loud extruders.
- Ventilation: If printing with materials like ABS or resin, ensure the area has good airflow to avoid fumes. Use a fan or ventilation hood if needed.
For example, a bed-slinger in a home office needs a quiet enclosure and adequate ventilation. A small-format printer in a garage can tolerate more noise but should still have good airflow to prevent filament fumes. Always keep the printer away from direct sunlight or heat sources to avoid warping or melting.
How to pick by what you want to print
Your printing goals determine the best printer class. For example:
- Miniatures or phone cases: A bed-slinger (220x220x250 mm) is ideal.
- Lamp bases or small furniture: A small-format printer (300x300x300 mm) is needed.
- Enclosed prints or ABS/PETG: An enclosed core-XY printer (250x250x300 mm) is best.
If you plan to print tall objects like a 3D-printed plant pot (200x150x300 mm), a printer with a Z-axis of at least 300 mm is required. Avoid printers with limited Z-axis travel if you plan to make tall items. Always check the printer's build volume against your largest planned part, including margins.
Worked example: Planning your first printer
Scenario: You want to print a 180x150x120 mm part (e.g., a custom phone case).
- Add margins:
- X: 180 mm + 20 mm = 200 mm - Y: 150 mm + 20 mm = 170 mm - Z: 120 mm + 5 mm = 125 mm
- Choose a printer class:
- A 220x220x250 mm bed-slinger fits all dimensions (200 < 220, 170 < 220, 125 < 250).
- Check footprint:
- A bed-slinger with a 220 mm Y travel needs 440 mm of shelf depth (220 mm x 2). Add 180 mm for the printer's width: 440 + 180 = 620 mm.
- Consider features:
- Auto bed leveling and flexible PEI plate for easy printing. - Enclosure if printing with ABS or PETG.
- Confirm size class:
- A 220x220x250 mm bed-slinger with auto leveling is the example size class used here.
Final check:
- The printer fits your part (200x170x125 mm < 220x220x250 mm).
- The footprint (620 mm) matches your shelf space.
- Features like auto leveling and PEI plate are included.
Common mistakes
- Buying a printer with a build volume smaller than your needs. Always add margins.
- Ignoring bed leveling. A poorly leveled bed causes failed prints.
- Using the wrong filament. PLA is easier for beginners; ABS/PETG need heat.
- Overlooking ventilation. Fumes from ABS or resin can be harmful.
- Choosing a printer without an enclosure. Open-frame printers are noisy and prone to warping.
Who this is not for
This guide is not for users who need industrial-grade printers for large-scale production, professional 3D printing services, or users printing with resin or high-temperature materials like nylon or polycarbonate. It's designed for beginners who want to print small parts like phone cases, miniatures, or simple prototypes.
FAQ
Q: Can I print with ABS on a bed-slinger? A: Yes, but you'll need a heated bed (60-110 C) and enclosure to prevent warping. Bed-slingers without these features are not ideal for ABS.
Q: How much does a good beginner printer cost? A: A 220x220x250 mm bed-slinger with auto leveling is a common starting size class. Enclosed printers are a larger class with a bigger footprint; pick by build volume and enclosure need, then compare current prices yourself.
Q: What's the best nozzle size for beginners? A: A 0.4 mm brass nozzle is ideal for most beginner projects. It balances speed and detail.
Q: Do I need an enclosure for PLA? A: No, PLA is less sensitive to temperature. An open-frame printer is sufficient for PLA.
Q: How do I calculate filament cost for my printer? A: Use our filament cost calculator to estimate based on build volume and filament type.
Ready to estimate your filament costs? Use our filament cost calculator to plan your first prints.
Related guides
- Enclosure vs Open Frame Printers
- Build Volume Math
- Filament Cost Printer Sizes
- Print Time Build Volume
- Nozzle Sizes Printers
- Filament Cost Calculator
Questions about this guide? Email hello@charlandandco.com.