Best ABS and ASA Filament for Beginners

Updated 2026-10-30

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When ABS or ASA Beats PLA and PETG

ABS and ASA are engineering-grade filaments that outperform PLA and PETG in specific scenarios. Both soften at higher temperatures than PLA (check the glass transition figure on the maker's data sheet), making them suitable for parts exposed to warm environments. ASA also resists UV light, which is critical for outdoor use. For example, a garden sign printed in PLA might degrade after weeks of sun exposure, while ASA would last years.

ABS is harder and more impact-resistant than PLA, making it ideal for mechanical parts like gears or brackets. However, it warps easily without a heated bed and enclosure. ASA, while slightly more flexible than ABS, is less prone to warping due to its molecular structure. Both materials are more durable than PETG, which can crack under stress.

Use ABS for indoor parts that need heat resistance, like a hot-end cover or a heat-resistant housing. Use ASA for outdoor parts, such as a weather vane or a garden sculpture. Avoid using ABS or ASA for parts that require high precision, as their shrinkage during cooling can cause dimensional inaccuracies.

Is Your Setup Ready: Bed, Enclosure, Ventilation

Before choosing ABS or ASA, confirm your printer has a heated bed (minimum 110 C for ASA) and an enclosure. A heated bed prevents warping by keeping the part warm during cooling. An enclosure reduces drafts, which can cause warping or uneven layer adhesion.

If your printer lacks a heated bed, consider upgrading or using a third-party heated bed. An enclosure can be a DIY box or a prebuilt unit; treat any price you see as a planning assumption and check fit against your printer's frame.

Ventilation is critical for ABS and ASA fumes. Do not rely on this page for a fume safety verdict. Refer to the filament maker's safety data sheet (SDS) and the EPA indoor air guidance for proper handling.

ABS vs ASA Classes: The Criteria Table

ABS is ideal for parts that need rigidity and heat resistance but are not exposed to sunlight. It's commonly used for functional prototypes or mechanical components. ASA is better for outdoor use due to its UV resistance, but it's slightly more expensive. Both materials require a heated bed and enclosure to prevent warping.

When choosing between ABS and ASA, consider the part's environment. For a 3D-printed lamp shade that will be indoors, ABS is sufficient. For a garden light post, ASA is necessary. Always check the filament's SDS for safety information and follow EPA guidelines for ventilation.

Warping, First Layers, and Drafts

Warping is a common issue with ABS and ASA due to their high shrinkage during cooling. A heated bed (110 C for ASA) and enclosure are essential to prevent warping. Without these, parts may curl at the edges or detach from the build plate.

First layers must be perfectly adhered to the build plate. Use a glue stick, hairspray, or a PEI sheet for better adhesion. If the first layer is uneven, the entire print may fail.

Drafts inside the printer can cause warping or uneven cooling. An enclosure with a fan or a sealed box helps maintain consistent temperatures. Avoid printing in drafty areas like a garage or near an open window.

Cost Per Print vs PLA

ABS and ASA are more expensive than PLA, but their durability and heat resistance justify the cost for certain projects. For example, a 60g part in PLA might cost 120 cents at 2.0 cents per gram, while the same part in ASA costs 150 cents at 2.5 cents per gram. The difference is 30 cents, which may be worth it for outdoor or high-heat applications.

Filament cost per print depends on the spool price and weight used. As planning assumptions only, say a 1 kg spool of ABS is $25 and ASA is $30. For a 60 g part, the cost is (60 / 1000) x $30 = $1.80 for ASA, or (60 / 1000) x $25 = $1.50 for ABS.

Print time is also a factor. A 60g part printed at 0.2mm layer height with a 0.4mm nozzle might take 1.5 hours. Add 10 minutes for bed warm-up, totaling 1 hour 40 minutes. This is longer than PLA, which cools faster and doesn't require a heated bed.

How to Pick by Part Type

Choose ABS or ASA based on the part's function and environment. For indoor parts that need heat resistance, like a hot-end cover or a heat-resistant housing, ABS is a good choice. For outdoor parts that need UV resistance, like a garden sign or a weather vane, ASA is better.

If the part is exposed to sunlight, use ASA. If it's in a warm but indoor environment, use ABS. Avoid using ABS or ASA for parts that require high precision, as their shrinkage during cooling can cause dimensional inaccuracies.

For example, a 3D-printed lamp shade that will be indoors can use ABS. A garden light post that will be outdoors must use ASA. Always check the filament's SDS for safety information and follow EPA guidelines for ventilation.

Worked Example: 60g Outdoor Bracket

Example planning numbers (labelled assumptions, not quotes):

• ASA spool price: $30 for 1 kg
• PLA spool price: $25 for 1 kg
• Part weight: 60 g (from the slicer estimate)
• Setup: heated bed at the maker's listed temperature, enclosure, ventilation per SDS and EPA guidance

Step 1: ASA cost per print (60 / 1000) x $30 = $1.80

Step 2: PLA cost for the same part (60 / 1000) x $25 = $1.50

Step 3: Difference $1.80 - $1.50 = $0.30 per bracket. Over 20 brackets that is $6.00 extra for UV resistance.

Step 4: Check the setup cost If you still need an enclosure, add its price once and divide by the number of parts you expect to print. Ten brackets carry a much bigger share than a hundred.

Final check: 0.06 x 30 = 1.80 and 0.06 x 25 = 1.50. ASA is the right class here because the bracket lives outdoors, not because of price.

Common Mistakes

1. Ignoring the heated bed and enclosure: ABS and ASA warp without a heated bed and enclosure.
2. Not checking spool dryness: Moisture in filament can cause bubbling and poor adhesion.
3. Using low-quality filament: Cheap ABS or ASA may not have the required heat resistance or UV protection.
4. Overlooking ventilation: Follow the filament maker's SDS and EPA indoor air guidance before printing indoors.
5. Printing in drafty areas: Drafts inside the printer can cause warping or uneven cooling.

Who This Is Not For

This guide is not for advanced users who already know how to handle ABS and ASA. It's also not for those without a heated bed or enclosure, as these materials require specific setup. If you need medical advice or legal guidance, consult a professional. This page does not provide health claims or engineering advice.

Labelled planning example: is the upgrade worth it?

Planning assumptions, not quotes: you already own a heated bed, you need an enclosure priced at $60, and you plan 30 outdoor brackets at 60 g each.

1. Filament premium over PLA: 30 x $0.30 = $9.00.
2. Enclosure share: $60 / 30 = $2.00 per bracket.
3. All-in extra per bracket: $0.30 + $2.00 = $2.30.

Final check: 30 x $2.30 = $69 = $9 + $60. If PLA parts would need replacing after one summer, ASA usually pays back quickly. If the parts stay indoors, PETG may do the job without an enclosure.

FAQ

Q: What's the best ASA for outdoor use? A: Look for ASA with UV stabilizers. Check the filament maker's SDS for UV resistance ratings.

Q: How to prevent warping with ABS? A: Use the bed temperature on the filament maker's label and an enclosure. Apply glue or hairspray to the build plate for better adhesion.

Q: Is ABS safe to use indoors? A: This page does not give a safety verdict. Read the filament maker's SDS and EPA indoor air guidance, and follow both.

Q: How much does ASA cost per print? A: At a planning price of $30 per kg (3 cents per gram), a 60 g part costs about $1.80, vs about $1.50 in PLA at $25 per kg.

Q: Can I use PLA for outdoor parts? A: PLA can soften in a hot car or direct sun, so ASA is the safer class for parts that live outside.

For proper ventilation when using ABS or ASA, see our guide on Ventilation Filament Types.

Related guides

• PLA vs ABS vs PETG
• Enclosure Options
• Ventilation Filament Types
• Ventilation Guidance
• Filament Cost Per Print
• Enclosure vs Open-Frame

Questions about this guide? Email hello@charlandandco.com.